Analysing the natural nail

By Kat Hill | 31 August 2019 | Expert Advice, Feature

Jessica Nails educator, Georgina Walker.

“It is important to carry out a thorough analysis at the beginning of each treatment to make sure you provide the correct solution to achieve the best results,” says Jessica Nails educator, Georgina Walker. “Assess each nail individually, as nails on the same hand can have different needs. This will allow you to tailor the treatment programme and duration.

“It’s important to check for contra indications during the first part of the treatment, after sanitising and removing polish or product. The reason for doing this first is to see the true colour of the nail underneath, as this can disguise contra indications. For pedicures, you need to be thorough when looking in between toes and around heels – but be subtle.

“With the nail, the drag and pinch tests can help determine how dry and flexible the nail is. Drag your thumb over the nail plate. The more resistant it is will indicate how dry the nail is. A healthy nail will be shiny and smooth, so there is less drag.

“Pinching the sides of the free edge gently will tell you how hard or soft the nail is. A nail that is weak and damaged is thin and can bend easily. A brittle nail may be hard, so won’t bend as easily.

“Lots of different factors can take its toll on nails: the environment, how you use your hands throughout the day. For example, if your hands spend a lot of time in water this can cause them to peel along the free edge. This is common amongst swimmers and hairdressers.

“Regular manicures or pedicures allow you to monitor progress and adjust prescriptions accordingly. As well as prescribing a treatment base coat for nails, apply extra oils and creams for those with dry skin, and offer hand massages to stimulate circulation. Depending on the nail concern, you can also offer your clients heated mittens or booties during the treatment to help products penetrate deeper. After the treatment complete a prescription card to record progress, monitor results and recommend aftercare.”

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