A guide to the gel system: when & how to use & troubleshooting tips

Nail pros share insight on the gel system…

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When to use the gel system

Theresa Foddering, Lecenté business development manager & Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award finalist 2025, adds: “If a client has weak or brittle nails that require extra support and strength, hard gel is a great option for enhancements. The product often has a thick viscosity and provides a super strong base, to add extra support and protection to natural nails.”

Traditional hard gel systems, typically housed in pots and applied with a brush, are designed to build and extend nails. Thicker and more durable than soft gel systems like gel polish, they can be used for overlays or to add length with forms or tips.

Emma Brock, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025 & OPI Nail Boss, shares which nail types are best suited to hard gel:

1. “Those with weak or brittle natural nails. Hard gel adds strength and durability.

2. Those who seek added length. Hard gel is excellent for sculpting extensions.

3. Those with natural nails prone to breaking. The strength of hard gel resists chipping and cracking.

4. Those with an active lifestyle. Hard gel can withstand more wear and tear than soft gel.

5. Those who seek long-lasting enhancements. Hard gel can last at least three weeks with proper maintenance.”

Emma notes that clients not suited to hard gel enhancements include:

1. “Those with oily nail beds or who experience excessive nail lifting. Hard gel may not adhere well.

2. Those who frequently pick at or bite their nails. This can cause the gel to lift or crack.

3. Those with allergies or sensitivities to acrylates. Hard gel can trigger allergic reactions if not applied correctly.

4. Those unwilling to commit to regular infills and professional removal. Hard gel requires ongoing maintenance.”

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How to use the gel system

Emma Brock says: “The secret to beautiful, long-lasting gel enhancements is thorough prep. Make sure the nail plate is completely clean and dry, as any oils or remaining cuticle can cause lifting.” Her top tips are:

•“Use a gentle buffer.

• Push back cuticles thoroughly.

• Apply a high-quality dehydrator and bonder.

• Work in thin, even layers.

• Let the gel self-level – don’t overwork it.

• Build a solid apex for strength, especially on longer nails.

• Float your brush lightly for a smooth finish.

• Always cap the free edge.”

Justyna Pryke, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025, shares her advice for perfecting hard gel infills: “I apply the first hard gel layer on the nails thinly, making sure the nail is fully covered. Then, I pick up a larger gel bead and apply it to one-third of the nail, where the apex is, using soft, round movements to pull the gel down towards the free edge. Place the client’s nail upside down to allow the product to self-level.”

“You can also use hard gel to correct natural nail shape,” says Barbara Preil-Kovács, Scratch Stars Gel Tech of the Year finalist 2025. “I regularly work with clients who have hooked nails, which curve downward as they grow. With careful prep and assessment of the hyponychium, I can gently lift and straighten their appearance using hard gel.”

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Troubleshooting tips

Emma Brock details some of the most common issues nail techs can experience using the gel system – and how to fix them:

1. “Lifting. Take your time with prep. Push back cuticles, gently buff and dehydrate the nail plate, keep your base layers thin and ensure you cap the free edge.
2. Heat spikes. Apply in thinner layers and flash cure for five to 10 seconds before a full cure. If your lamp has a low-heat mode, use it.
3. Cracking or breaking. Build a strong apex and reinforce key areas. Don’t apply too thin just to make the nail look natural – structure matters! Always finish with a top coat that’s designed for hard gel.
4. Bubbles. Use a light hand and let the gel do the work – it’s self-levelling for a reason! Don’t stir or mix the gel.
5. Yellowing or discolouration. Invest in high-quality gels with UV protection. Encourage your clients to wear gloves when cleaning and avoid harsh chemicals.”

Discover more about the gel system in Scratch’s June issue via our digital magazine.