How to remove gel polish safely without damaging nails

Gel polish overlays should not cause any damage to nails. As award-winning nail artist, Katie Clark
(née Barnes), has previously written for Scratch, natural nail damage can occur as a result of ‘improper application or removal, overly aggressive filing or client abuse such as picking or biting’.

If done without care, caution and the proper tools, gel polish removal can cause significant damage.

Nail clients should always go to a professional for gel polish removal, to reduce the likelihood of damage. However, Katie Clark offers advice for pros with clients determined to carry out gel polish removal at home: “Let’s face it – if they are considering and questioning it – they are likely to go ahead and do it anyway.

“Doing this without the right education or products will inevitably lead to damage and give you, the tech, a harder task when the client returns for a nail service,” she continues. “Nail professionals can offer instructions and tutorials on removal alongside removal kits, which can increase retail revenue.”

How to safely remove gel polish

The key thing to remember is that removing gel polish should not hurt. “You shouldn’t put pressure on the nail at all,” advises Danielle Brindley, Scratch Stars Hall Of Famer & Glitterbels educator. “Removal should be painless and smooth.”

Nail pros should start by using a 180/180-grit file to buff the top layer of each nail, ensuring there is no shine left. Next, apply a generous amount of acetone to a cotton pad and place this directly on top of each nail, wrapping the cotton pad and nail in foil.

Danielle Brindley suggests applying a drop of cuticle oil to the cuticle before applying the acetone-soaked cotton pad, to retain hydration during the removal process.

Ideally, you should complete all the above steps on one nail at a time, so that by the time you have finished wrapping the last nail, the first one will have been soaking for a good amount of time.

One nail at a time, remove the foil and cotton pad. The gel polish should appear to have ‘bubbled up’. Take a cuticle pusher and gently stroke along the nail to remove the gel polish. You should be applying little to no pressure, essentially coaxing the remaining product off the nail.

To remove any tough areas, repeat the soaking process until the gel polish loosens. You can use a 180/180-grit file to gently file remaining product, and make sure to apply cuticle oil after removal to hydrate the natural nail.

If product is stubborn and will not come off, do not apply excess pressure or scrape at the nail plate; instead, repeat the above processes until you see results. Also try warming the hands/feet, as heat can help speed up the removal process.