3 simple ways to paint French tips using nail polish or gel polish

Session nail stylist, salon owner & educator, Marie-Louise Coster, shares three methods to perfect the French manicure…

A nail style that never loses popularity is the French manicure, but as a service, it often terrifies nail techs.

There are many ways to achieve French tips and with practice, you will find a way that suits you. Here are some ideas to perfect a French manicure with nail polish and gel polish.

Method 1

You can paint French tips using the brush in your nail polish or gel polish bottle. As it is quite large, it requires plenty of control. I don’t recommend painting the tip from one side of the nail to the other, as due to the angle, you won’t achieve an even depth of line.

After prep and application of two coats of base colour, apply three vertical strokes at the tip of the nail. Apply one in the middle, then add one on either side. These should reach to the end of the nail and be as deep as you want the French tip to be.

Using your brush, with no extra product, brush horizontally from the outside strokes to the central mark, in a curve shape. When you are happy with the tip shape, allow to air dry or cure. Apply a second coat, tidying up any imperfections, and allow to air dry or cure. Finish with top coat.

Gel polish tip

I find it helpful to decant a little isopropyl alcohol and use it with an angled brush to tidy up the smile line before curing. Blot the brush on a nail wipe before using on the nail. This won’t affect your cured base colour and allows you to perfect the tip shape before curing.

Method 2

This also involves using the brush in your nail or gel polish bottle.

After prep and application of two coats of base colour, paint a diagonal line from the side of the nail to the middle of the tip on each side. This will create a ‘V’ shape.

Next, paint straight across the bottom of the nail to connect the two diagonal sections and create the curved tip shape. If needed, tidy up the smile line, then allow to air dry or cure. Finish with top coat.

Method 3

Another way to create a French tip is by using a dotting tool and thin liner brush.

After prep and application of two coats of base colour, apply a dot in the centre of where you want your smile line to sit. Apply dots up each side of the nail, to mark out the entire smile line.

With a thin liner brush, join the dots and fill in the tip. Allow to air dry or cure, and finish with top coat.

As you build your confidence, you can create French tips with a pattern, for example dots, flowers or animal print. Have fun creating!

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Lead image shows nails for the Edward Crutchley AW23 London Fashion Week show using Jessica Cosmetics, where Marie-Louise was nail lead.